The best way to understand any city is through its food. And the best way to understand Jaipur's Walled City is through the food you find in its lanes at different times of day.
At 8 in the morning, the kachori vendors are frying the first batch of the day and the smell of hot oil and cumin drifts across Badi Chaupar. At noon, the mithai shops are fully open and the display cases are loaded with sweets glistening with ghee and syrup. At 4 in the afternoon, the chaat carts appear in the bazaar lanes and the evening crowd begins to build. At 9 at night, a single jalebi stall on Chaura Rasta is still frying, and there is a short queue of locals who know that this is the best time to eat it.
Food in the Walled City of Jaipur is not restaurant food in the conventional sense. It is street food, bazaar food, shop food, and occasionally home food that has been sold publicly for so many decades that it has become inseparable from the city's identity. The dishes do not change season to season. The best stalls have been serving the same things in the same way for fifty, eighty, a hundred years.